Return of Eden

Marsh Arabs poling a mashoof through the Mesopotamian Marshes

Covering 15,000 sq km, it was thought to be the third largest wetland in the world. An interconnected network of channels, island and lakes, teaming with fish, reptiles and amphibians, and forming a major stopping off point for migrating birds in their tens of thousands. The only mode of transport was that of boats, slowly paddling between reed beds growing 8 foot high. Lying at the confluence of the Tigris and the Euphrates rivers, this was the original Garden of Eden.

This is how it had been for thousands of years, with the Marsh Arabs developing their own culture and way of life, living within the wetland. The Mesopotamian Marshes were a vital source of fish, reeds, and other natural resources to the whole of Iraq and the surrounding areas. With vast desert on all sides, the marshes were a hugely important source of fresh water for all biodiversity in the region. That was until the 1990s. In a bid to punish the Marsh Arabs for an attempted revolt in 1991, Saddam Hussein had channels and canals built to divert the water away from the marshes, around the Tigris and Euphrates, to empty directly into the Gulf. Within months the wetlands started to dry, until eventually they were reduced by 93%, in what The United Nations Environmental Programme called the worst environmental disaster of the last century.   

Marsh Arab Girl, Iraq

For over a decade, what used to be a fertile, green and productive habitat, only dust and sand remained, forcing the tribes who had lived there for centuries to seek lives elsewhere. That was until the 2003 invasion of Iraq, and Saddam was disposed. This gave one man, Azzam Alwash, an Iraqi who fled Saddams regime, his chance to return to his native country and try to restore this important cultural and biodiverse ecosystem. On his return he founded Nature Iraq, which now works to help restore and preserve Iraq’s natural heritage.

After destroying some of the drainage canals, Azzam started the project to restore the marshes to their former extent, re-flooding what had become arid desert. Within months the water had started to return, and in 2007 Nature Iraq had succeeded in restoring 50% of the wetlands. However, this success was short lived, with the current estimate now lying at around 30% of the marshes re-established. According to Azzam, this is due to various damming projects further up the Euphrates and Tigris, which are restricting the natural flow of water back into the wetlands. With plans to remove more drainage canals, hopefully a larger proportion of the marshes will return to its former glory.

The Southern Iraqi marshes

The past 10 years have seen monumental changes to the wetlands, and the beginnings of recovery. Around 40 species of birds have been recorded in the marsh, including the recolonisation of imperial eagles (Aquila heliaca), great white pelicans (Pelicanus onocotalus), greater flamingos (Phoenicopterus roseus), and squacco herons (Ardeola ralloides). In 2011, with help from Birdlife International, Nature Iraq recorded a staggering 40,000 marbled ducks (Marmonaretta angustirostris) in a single flock, accounting for roughly 60% of the global population. In addition to this, they also spotted the endangered Basra reed warbler (Acrocephalus griseldis), and it is thought that the population in the Mesopotamian marshes accounts for 90% of all individuals.

Marbled duck (Marmaronetta angustirostris)

Whilst many of the mammals once present in the marshes, including Indian crested porcupines (Hystrix indica), bandicoot rats (Bandicota), and marsh grey wolves (Canis lupus) are now extirpated, it is hoped that time will allow the re-colonisation of European (Lutra lutra) and smooth coated otters (Lutrogale perspicillata), both of which species are found on the Iran-Iraq border.

This watery world has global ecological significance, and the beginning of its recovery calls for great celebration. In recognition of this turning of tides, in April 2013 Azzam was awarded the Goldman Prize, known as the “green Oscar” for environmental activism, and in August this year the Iraqi Council of Ministers have designated the Central Marshes of Iraq as the nations first National Park. Hopefully this is the beginning of a successful recovery, and if the water continues to flow for the next decade, will see the Garden of Eden continue to flourish.